I passed quickly from Poland into the Czech Republic and the sun came out but I soon had issues with that was supposed to be a half day ride to Liberec where I had a hotel room booked.
I started out on minor road running next to the motorway but soon seemed to be heading up the slip road in on to it but as I approached the fast moving traffic the Strava route on
my phone indicated to turn right over a fence and up a steep embankment if looked like this junction was pretty new. My map was not detailed enough to show an alternative but not to worry I switched to Google Maps and looked for another way but there was no cycling option available. I did manage to pick out a route to the next town where I rejoined the route I had planned but again at the next motorway junction I was heading up the slip road past the no cycling sign and thinking I can't see any alternatives here.
Eventually, whilst getting strange looks from the passing cars I made my way back down the slip road and again looked to find an alternative route using minor roads along a river and then found a signposted cycle route, so they do exist pity the technology has not caught up.
Routes there maybe, but they are not well signed and this one soon petered out in the next town and I was left to my own devices. I followed a road sign to Liberec and was struggling up this hill whilst an old guy with a wheelbarrow was shouting at me "what are you doing you fool don't know know there is a nice flat cycle route" or at least that's what I assumed he said to which I responded "well they should buy some more signs for it I'm going this way!"
Toiling up the hills I noticed how the Czech drivers were not as considerate as those from Germany and of course the Netherlands (I can feel a league table coming on) there were a few close passes and drivers playing chicken with the oncoming traffic.
After a couple of hours toiling over hills I arrived at Liberec at 4 pm. I didn't stop for any food as I had no local currency but had some emergency German sausages which I eagerly consumed with a welcome beer as I dried my tent.
The next morning I had to work on navigation when I plotted the route for this first phase across Europe I started in Rotterdam and put in three waypoints Berlin, Budapest and Istanbul. So my route was what us sailor would call more of a rhum line a suggested shortest route which I would work around but without detailed maps and no help from google I had to have a re-think to avoid a repeat of yesterday.
My intention from Liberec was to ride diagonally across the country to Bruno and then further south to enter Slovakia close to the Austrian border.
So I mapped out a detailed route on the cycling app Strava for the next few days and then went over it mile by mile to rework it so as to avoid main roads and also any routes I could see that were not roads so fingers crossed I would make more progress.
The next day was forecast sun for the rest of the week so I swung by a chemist to get some suntan lotion which was lost with my wash bag I had left behind in Berlin and added to the butcher's bill of lost kit along the way including a down body warmer and a pair of thick socks.
I managed to pick a chemist in the Liberec equivalent of the Trafford Centre and parked my bike at the opposite end and three levels above where I needed to be! It was still all there when I got back and eventually at 1 pm, sunscreen applied, I was off and made good progress. I stopped after 15 miles for a late lunch of a pizza the size of a steering wheel which I was still digesting for the rest of the afternoon which consisted of some alpine style climbs and descents which I tried to video but without success. This included passing through a ski resort which was a bit ironic given the snow yesterday!
The next day I knew was mostly flat so I set myself a 70 mile target so I could stand a good chance of getting into Brno by midday on the 18th as my day off strategy had evolved into have two half days instead as this worked if you could check in early check out late.
The route planning had worked well but there were still glitches where realising that hills are not my friend I had set the parameters to minimise elevation I was taken on a few long cuts or curious routes that added distance or sent me down rough back lanes which were equally unsuitable see the examples below.
The other issue was the cafes and bakeries I had refuelled at so far just petered out and had to get by with supermarkets and corner shops. One shop I called at was selling bread by the slice and single persil tabs. It looked like I was in a tough poor farming region and not the place people had time to catch up over a skinny latte.
After a couple of these questionable route choices I was left at 4.30 pm with 15 miles on the main road to the next large town and nothing but cuppa soup for my dinner or 20 miles by the suggested route.
I chose the main road but I think I made a mistake as it must have been built by Romans as whilst bullet straight it was a roller coaster of climbs and descents and at 7 pm I was shattered. I pushed my bike up the final climb into the town to find the supermarket shut but a restaurant open so I dived in grabbed some food and broke my rule of the road not to drink unless on an evening off but after 75 miles in the saddle with I think an exception was required.
The sun had gone down as I left town so I had to grab the first camping spot I could find and was putting my tent up with my head torch on.
The next morning it was freezing there was frost on the inside of my tent and ice in my water bottle. The big day I had put in meant I only had to do 50 or so miles today so I stayed put and waited for things to thaw out.
My morning brew stop was a result as I dropped into Zdar nad Sazavour I came to the famous Pilgrimage spot of St John of Nepomuk but my calling however was towards the first coffee shop I had seen since entering the country.
After that the catering when downhill as each village I came through had a just single Coop store that seemed to have the monopoly on food distribution and opened when they wanted. The first had already closed at 12 noon the second I found shut at 3 pm it was 2.30 and I had not had lunch. There was limited choice and all behind a counter like Arkwright's in Open All Hours!
Lunch was milk, raspberry jaffa cakes an apple and banana. I pushed on and with a bleak looking bunch of dots ahead thought the cuppa soup would be dinner but did manage to find a bar which with the help of one of the customers was able to order some schnitzel! 55 miles in the tanks and just 20 to go tomorrow.
My hard work paid off and I rolled into Brno at 11 am on the 18th April but not without incident losing a bolt from my pannier rack on the way in.
Brno is the second biggest city and was able to buy some chain cleaner, energy drink tabs, cream for my legs and camping gas before booking into my hotel and a traditional green beer for Easter.
I had a quick whistle stop walk around Brno an impressive city and a stark contrast to the poverty I had seen on my way in slide show below.
The next morning I set about route planning for the next leg to Budapest I still had the day in hand from leaving Berlin early and had allowed an extra day in Brno as some friends were planning to visit but that fell thought. I had however arranged a night out in Budapest with friends there on the 26th so couldn't leave before then.
I decided the best plan would be a short 2 day ride to Bratislava then push on down the Danube to Budapest. I had ridden this route a couple of time in three days but thought with my long dawn to dust rides two and a half should make it so booked a hostel from Tuesday to Friday so I would have three full days in Budapest.
Plans made I gave my chain a clean and left a bit of a stain on the hotel car park (oops) checked my pannier bolts and was off. I had a great ride out of Brno it looked like the whole city had taken to wheels that day as I shared the road with young and old either on bikes or roller blades a few electric bikes passed me but I don't mind them anything that gets people out is good. Leaving the city I picked up a Eurovelo route which was a nice flat tarmac path which was well signposted with lots of cafes full of cyclist along the route.
My fears of nothing being open on Good Friday were abated.
I then cycled along a large reservoir crossing a causeway to the southern bank where I rode past a string of bars selling local wine and places to sit out in the sun and enjoy them. I though better not stop now but might sample a glass at the end of the day.
Further on I came to Lednice which was a lovely town with a stunning Chateau built in and English Neo Gothic style.
I got an ice cream and ate it in the gardens where people were eating but five more miles for me. I pushed on for another 5 miles to Breclav which was soviet industrial town and a stark contrast to Lednice which with the benefit of hindsight is where I should have stopped tonight.
There where no nice restaurants to be found but I did manage to find a grill house and get a big steak overlooking a car park which was a treat for my last night in the Czech Republic as I had some cash left.
My sister Becky had promised to do a bike ride for every country I cycle through and I reviewed my tour options and decide as I was close, I would stray into Austria tomorrow so she can add this one to her list won't she be please and then it will be on to Slovakia.
I pushed on as the sun was going down and as I left the town was bombarded by a barrage of large moths. One landed on my arm and was the size of a small field mouse!
I cycled along with my head turned to the side as the moths ricocheted of me and my helmet then they were gone and was in the forest looking to a place for the night. The light was fading as I passed a secure compound with each of the inviting the forest tracks warning of munitions so obviously that must have been a military installation.
I did eventually find a route in with no danger sign and was looking for a suitable flat site for the tent when a large deer ran about 10 feet in front of me! I put my tent up under the light from my head torch and went straight to bed.
This is turning into Eastern Europe Spring Watch but I poked my head out of the tent the next morning to be greeted by a large black wild boar with her youngster close by. They soon clocked me and were off into the trees. I packed up camp and headed down the roads and before you knew it was in Austria.
