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  • Writer's pictureMatthew Mears

Germany

Updated: May 10, 2020

I entered Germany and was heading due east to first Hannover and then Berlin. The observant of you will notice is not exactly in the direction of Singapore or more immediately Istanbul the direct route to which was more diagonally across Germany and Austria.


I've never visited Berlin and as this city was on the original route I dreamt up to Moscow before I became more ambitions but I kept things as they were. I would head further south later with the added advantage that this would get me into Eastern Europe sooner which would also help with the bank balance!



I was warned by a Dutch guy who I got talking to and bought me a coffee in that the cycling provisions in German were not good so I was somewhat apprehensive what I would find over the border but there were signposted routes and dedicated cycle lanes so all was good.


I made it to my lunch target and was able to have a leisurely sandwich and superb pastry once my tent dried I was ready for the off.

Stealth Bike!

Before I left I got accosted by a fellow cyclist who wanted a picture and then I was off. I followed the roads on my map for an hour or so and then the route to my next afternoon target was back to country lanes which were not on my map but as I reached a canal there was a yellow cycle diversion sign which I of course ignored and about half a mile later arrived at a closed bridge with some workmen looking at me like I was an idiot!


I turned back and was annoyed to see on my phone me speed off in exactly the opposite direction I wanted to go. It was at this time I started to feel my left thigh tightening but in the middle of nowhere pushed on stopping to stretch out from time to time.


Unfortunately the pain in my leg got worse so I thought I would just get to me next break spot and then looks for a place to stay. I checked out any accommodation but it was all expensive so Plan B was to get there and try and find a secluded spot to stop early and get the tent up.


As I approach the town I was in luck as it was at the top of a mile long steep hill!


Unable to pedal as a pushed the bike up I realised it was a upmarket resort and there was no chance of finding a camping spot just finding food was tricky as there were lots of expensive looking restaurants filling up on a Friday night which did not look like they would welcome a wet cyclist (did I mention it had started raining?). I managed to find an Italian doing take out wolfed down a pizza, stocked up on milk and bananas and got the hell out of there straight back down the hill I had just pushed up.

Pizza in the rain

I was soon back in open land and found a nice patch of old woodland which I was able to sneak into tent up head down but 10 miles short for the day.


Sitrep in morning .... 85 mile to go to Hannover and leg still sore.


I looked at the options and could get a train from Osnabruck which was 10 miles away so decision made. I found a hotel room in Hannover, booked in and set off undertaking some maintenance to the bike and rider whilst I waited for the train.


Once in Hannover after 4 days on the road and wild camping it was time to get everything washed before a quick walk around the city and some shopping then an early night in a real bed luxury!


The day off seemed to have sorted out my leg but I took it gently heading out of the city early which was a good plan as it was the Hannover Marathon and I passed by marshals with barriers ready to close the roads which would have made my exit a challenge if I had left it much later.


I found my way onto a canal and the sun came out all was good in the world but it didn't last!


About five mile down the route I came to a lock the path rose to meet the higher level but as I climbed the pain in my left thigh was back and as much as I tried to stretch it off at the top it would not move. I carried on as gently as I could but soon came to conclusion that I was doing more harm than good and that the only thing for this was to get to Berlin which was my best bet for sustained rest and treatment. My sister Naomi who is a physio game me some advice with regard to treatment and found me some English speaking physios to try.


Meanwhile at Mission Control my niece Ava who is the health and safety officer for this expedition noted down my new location.

It is serious face for a serious job

Right I now have a full five days off in Berlin some physio, lots of stretching and rolling and ice bags.



It was also my birthday during my Berlin layover so I was able to pull out of my pannier some of the cards which people had pressed into my hand at my grant depart party and have a little celebration alongside my route planning for the next phase.


I did a lot of walking around the city which helped to keep my leg mobile I tried to follow the route of the Berlin Wall but it has all but disappeared apart from a section near the river which has been preserved and become an art installation which some staggering works and of course Checkpoint Charlie with a couple of fake American Soldiers available for selfies at a price.


So here are a few photos from my extended lay off.




7 am and time to hit the road and try and beat the traffic. It was also time to head south and had planned a route which took me east of Dresden and on into eastern europe beyond.


It was cloudy and cold trying to snow in fact. I zig zagged through the streets and then came to what I would describe as the Berlin Broads cycling past rowing and sailing clubs which reminded me of being back in the lakes.

The Berlin Broads

I was putting my trust in Google Maps to guide me out of the city and it did a great job sending this way and then I picked up an main road with an adjacent tarmac cycle path the legs were feeling great and the miles were flying by!


I went through a thick forest which was quite hypnotic and next was a leap into the unknown as I headed into a big patch of green on my map but found some great tracks through the trees.


It was great to be back in rural Germany and ended the day travelling through a tourist location full of waterways with long punt like boats best described as a sort of cross between Cambridge and the American Deep South!



75 miles my longest day yet the legs are back!


The next day was another good one through woodland and fields a few detours needed as I was suggested to go down forest tracks which it looked like no one had been down in years and some had been blocked no doubt by land owners tired of cyclist getting lost in the woods. I came across a lot of hides and thought there must be a lot of bird watchers in Germany then I came to the conclusion they probably sit in there with a shotgun and shoot the bejesus out of anything that flies or trots past. I kept my high vis jacket on!



As the day drew to a close I started climbing as I came to the southern end of Germany had a wurst and beer in the beautiful city of Bautzen headed uphill and made camp for the night.


The next morning I was in for a shock as it had been trying to snow all day and today it did.


I knocked up a batch of porridge which I ate in my tent and then it was time to pack up the wet tent and brave the elements.


I battled on along a main road in the snow with my feet in plastic bags to keep them warm as I stuck to main roads to Zittau.


My phone was down on power and today was no the time for a trip through the woods.


I grabbed a coffee and apple turnover as I warmed up in a cafe and put some charge into my phone.


As I got back on my bike the sky was clearing then that was it I was off over the river and into Poland.


Germany was done.

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