Landing in Esztergom I looked around for any currency exchange but it was the same on this side of the river all were shut so retained my euros, got some forints from an ATM and headed to the main square in search of some food.
It was 7 pm and there was a street festival that was wrapping up but I managed to grab a savoury langos (https://www.buzzfeed.com/anitabadejo/hungarian-foods-the-world-should-know) and beer which was well deserved after a tough day.
The wind was increasing further, the sky was turning ominously grey and the stall holders were packing up in earnest which all spelled one thing rain!
I polished off my meal and headed off down the river my first thought was to head for the ferry across the Danube camp there and then be in place to get the first crossing the next morning.
I checked and it was about 7 miles away which at 7 mph into this wind would take too long but as I left the city I spied a track down by the river and set up camp double quick on the beach putting the flysheet up first gazebo style to offer some cover as drops of rain were starting to fall.
There was no heavy rain the the night but in the morning drops were still falling so I checked the forecast which confirmed that I was going to still have a headwind all day and rain from 12 noon getting heavier. I changed my plans to take the full cycle route that involved crossing and recrossing the river on two ferries and decided on the faster option of the main road running down this south side. I struck camp and was on the road by 7am hoping to make the 40 miles to Budapest before the rain came in.
I found an open shop in the first town and had a quick breakfast of milk and a Hungarian speciality of cottage cheese dipped in chocolate sounds strange but is really good! No. 24 https://www.buzzfeed.com/anitabadejo/hungarian-foods-the-world-should-know
Then it was head down and ploughed on picking up the cycle route at the second ferry crossing which gave me some relief from the main road into Szentendre at 10.30. I knew it would take about an hour from here as I had cycle the route many times when I lived in Budapest so stopped for a coffee and a refreshing homemade lemonade.
Szentendre is a lovely town just north of the city and has a Mediterranean feel as during the Great Turkish War, Serbs were invited to emigrate to Hungary to evade the Ottoman Empire. Because of this invitation, there was a mass emigration of Serbs in 1690 to the Szentendre region so they build homes and churches in their style.
Here is a slide show of a few shots I took whilst I was there.
I headed off at 11 am my all time record was 40 minutes from here but with my loaded bike and the headwind, I was not going to beat this today. I was however making good progress then had my first off of the trip.
I was on a dirt road section and the route was signed to turn left there were two routes but the sign was attached to a tree passed the first so I took the second only to plunge into soft sand my front wheel dug in the bike slewed to the right and I exited to the left!
Fortunately nothing was broken on me or the bike so I reattached the front pannier and pushed the bike onto the first track which I then followed to a beach area to the north of the city. This on a nice day I remembered being a nightmare to navigate but the morning after the Easter weekend it was deserted with just those dismantling pop up bars.
Into some urban sprawl and there was the city I took a quick snap as it was 12 noon and right on cue the rain had started so I made a quick dash to my hostel to start a few days break.
I had a great few days off with some recovery from the first leg of my trip I started with a 90 minute massage which was agony with all the knots in my muscles and I felt like I had been hit by a truck as I left but felt the benefit the day after. I headed for a swim in the open air pool on Margaret Island on the Thursday which was the best day weather wise and on my last day I went to the Ruda baths. This is not such a tourist hot spot but the oldest of the thermal spas in Budapest built during the time of Ottoman rule.
I also did some shopping picking up a some more dry bags which are always useful plus a mouse for this laptop, an extra power pack and charger all from Arena Plaza which I used to manage for two year when I was over here. Whilst there I met up with one of the team who filled me in with all the changes especially with the new Polish owners.
I walked past my old apartment and a few old haunts from my time in the city some of which had moved or closed down but did get into Szimpla Kert which is the biggest ruin bar in the city which was great fun to explore again some photos below.
Soon it was Friday and I was ready to go I caught up with a load of friends for a drink before I left and was great to see them all it was as though I had been away 5 minutes not pushing 9 years!
Right Saturday morning dawned but in anticipation of the night before I had not planned to leave before noon so took my time packing up and gave the bike a once over but was soon on the road passing the Parliament and then the castle heading due south to the next capital on the river Belgrade.
Pushing on I struggled through an industrial area where I lost the Eurovelo 6 route I was following and got stuck somewhere between a main road and rail tracks which lead to some annoying back tracks.
I eventually broke free of the city and ran along and over Csepel Island. This is cut off from the mainland by a branch of the Danube and was riding passed miles of small holiday homes each with bathing or mainly from what I saw fishing platforms build over the river.
I was making good progress so pushed on but being early in the season was struggling again to find anywhere open to get a meal and then in the middle of nowhere the cycle route turned into a grass track that slowed matters down further.
It was getting late so I decided it was time to call it a day and bring out the emergency noodles I'd bought in the Czech Republic which were surprisingly tasty!
The next morning on Sunday I switched my phone on to find a text from my mate Karl who was supposed to be mountain biking but conditions were bad in the hills so was planning to ride with me.
I struggled with the grass track for another 7-8 miles but eventually met up with Karl who offloaded a road bike which would make the route options a bit limited for the morning as he planned to ride with me until lunchtime then trace his route back.
We had a few detours required but generally the route worked well with smooth tarmac and a nice tailwind which worked for me however Karl was not looking forward to the ride back! We made good progress and had clocked 50 miles by lunchtime when after a meal we parted company.
I was going well and feeling good until this young guy draws alongside and we talk. He is going to Greece and set off three days ago from Brno, it had taken me 6 days cycling cover the same distance! He said goodbye and disappeared off at speed over the horizon leaving me a bit disillusioned.
I made it to the target for the day of Baja with time to spare so was able to stop for a bowl of pasta in the main square and take in the sights.
Baja is not directly on the Danube but has build a canal and docks so they can benefit from both the commerce and leisure use for the river.
Whilst in Baja I stocked up on essentials using up any change I had and bought some replacement emergency noodles.
I pushed on towards the Serbian border was tempted to carry on as I was on a main road but it was quite however it was Sunday evening so wanted to cross the next morning to make sure I could change some money as had lots of Hungarian Forints left. So found a nice pitch with a view and with 82 miles done had set a new record.
The next morning I completed the main road section with much more traffic but then thankfully I was able to thread my way by minor roads to the border. This was the first one I had to produce my passport at and get it stamped I was out on my comfort zone and in Serbia.
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