The blogs I had read said the ferry crossing took about 30 hours so we thought we were due for another night on board and then an early morning departure but a around 3 pm we sighted land and soon we were being asked to strip our beds and vacate our cabins so we were docking soon.
In no time were swung into a newly constructed harbour in Aksu which down the coast from Aktau and were inching slowly into our berth. This had to be inch perfect so the train tracks on the boat lined up with those on the coast.
Me and Chris the German cyclist I shared a cabin with headed down to start loading up our bikes but were sent back up for passport control which was being carried out on the boat.
We were ushered up to the top deck were an makeshift border post had been set up on the ship but then down a floor to compete some. THis done it was back up and with forms and passport stamped some photos taken we were free to go or not as we were then stopped from disembarking at the ramp for half an hour but finally at 8.15pm given the OK.
We set off riding and came to a deserted customs post we had been asked on the ship so thought this must not be operational yet but no as we pushed through the barriers there was a shout from two men in uniform. We had to wait there for another half an hour until someone came over opened the barrier checked our passports and asked us the same questions again.
At 9 pm we set of riding but as we passed the port building were called over and had to bring our bikes inside they checked our passports again then we had to take off all of bags and pass them through an x-ray machine.
It was now 9.30 so too late to go anywhere so we got come cash from the ATM and bought food at the cafeteria.
We set of riding towards the gate which was shut yes, you guessed it, yet another passport check and at 9.45 with the sun setting we had finally been let loose in Kazakhstan!
We headed a short distance up the road and found a place to camp just off the road and sheltered from the wind by earth works.
The next morning we had a nice ride across the featureless landscape in the cool of the morning as we headed to the nearest town to get supplies.
We were told there was nothing for the next 45 miles so stocked up on water Chris seemed to be going a bit OTT on this but having spent a month in Iran he was right as I started to ration water as the day progressed.
Early in the ride we came across a herd of camels a first for me which reinforced that I was definitely entering a new stage of this journey.
We were pushing into a headwind that was building through the day and Chris was powering on so no photos from here on in as I was playing catch up and staggering into the bus stops we took shelter in as the wind increased from 15 to 20 mph through the day. It was like trying to cycle into a hair dryer that someone was shovelling sand into!
Finally with 5 miles to go we came across a shop and I bought a litre of coca cola which I pretty much downed in one. Chris couldn't finish his so I downed that was well and we found a cheap hostel on the outskirts of Aktau to stay for the next few days. I wanted to get the train for the next 500 miles through the desert and Chris wanted to rest up and wait for some friends who were following on.
I managed to book myself onto a train leaving the day after tomorrow so had a walk around the city it was pretty grim and the conclusion of which was I should have bought a ticket for tomorrow instead!
I took a few pictured and the slide show is below.
I did however give me time to do some more research and planning for the Pamir Highway which was soon going to be looming over the horizon.
Right time to go and I set off super early sort of as I had to wait for the lazy sun to show up but on the road at 6.30 am for the 10 miles to the train station to miss the heavy traffic and soaring temperatures.
From Aktau/Aqtau my route was to head south east below the Aral Sea to meet up with the silk route in Uzbekistan. I would be back in Kazakhstan later on in the ride as I would end up at Bishkek then a short hop to Almaty where I would get my planned flight down to New Delhi.
Chris was going to brave the 500 miles through the desert but for me it was the train.
I had my programme for this section compressed by meeting the boys in India earlier than I had planned and it's a bloody desert!
A long straight road through nothing with sand on it. The account I'd read in Tom Bruce's book which was my inspiration for this trip talks about having to carry 20 Litres of water as well as all your other gear and your wheels heating up if you stop so they burst your tyres.
I had a great ride out only spoilt by a few chasing dogs but the taser seemed to keep them at a distance I arrived at the station just as it started to rain so I took shelter.
Typical no danger of my tyres bursting today then.
The train swung in and after some sign language I got my bike and gear stowed away and found my accommodation/shelf for the next 32 hours on this fully booked third class carriage nice!
Fortunately I had an opening window which I put my head next to so I got some ventilation and was able to make the most of the passing scenery see the slide show below.
Later on in the journey the train ground to a halt and people started getting off and coming back with food and drink. I ventured out to a small track side market which had been set up and bought some lunch. It was still raining lightly this desert business is easy!
Another stop down the line and it looks like some of the carriages had run out of kindling as these old soviet trains had solid fuel water boilers so the conductors went out scavenging for bits round these disuse sleepers.
At least they had Christian toilets not those squat and drop ones which takes me back to an overnight train in France. Someone was complaining how difficult is was to use the swat toilet until I pointed out the toilet was standard and separate and what she was aiming at was the floor drain in the wash hand basin cubicle!
The train pulled off again and more traders came on-board so I was able to buy some meat dumplings for dinner and I also change my remaining Kazakh money to 100 grand of the Uzbek stuff (about a tenner)
Off to bed but we were up at 3 am to be checked out of Kazakhstan with dogs aboard and border control checking some bags but thankfully they left me alone must have been my butter won't melt face and that was in goodbye Kazakhstan for now..... I might be back!
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