We were told that the roads passed the Kyrgyzstan border were good so arrived at the summit looking forward to a 30 mile smooth downhill run.
This was not to be though as the gravel continued but whilst descending we were struck by just how green this side of the pass was compared with Tajikistan.
The road deteriorated further as we made our way down the valley with many landslides over the road and a couple of streams to be forded.
Eventually the mountain road came to and end with a couple of final switchbacks but the rough conditions had seen the end of Chris' rear rack with the other side which he had already strengthened as a preventative measure.
We and we continued on the valley floor which was a strange environment. It looked like a Scottish loch with the water taken out and replaced by pebbles. There was also an impressive view of The Pink Lady (Peak Lenin) in the background.
Pink Lady was literally a case of Chinese whispers as I met a Chinese cyclist in Kalai-Khum who had come the opposite what and when we were discussing the route that is what I thought she had called the mountain.
As we progressed we came across a mammut which was happy to be photographed close up.
On reflection happy is possibly not the best word to use maybe cooperative might be better!
Eventually at the end of the valley we came to the Kyrgyzstan border which was post sensibly situated at the bottom of the hill not like those hardcore Tajik's at the top.
The border had been closed for an hour due to prayers and no internet but was opening up and Chris managed to negotiate us a spot at the front of the queue so we were soon on our way this time on smooth tarmac.
We sped off across the plain towards Sary Tach where we would stay for the evening. Looking back at the mountains that we had just come cross was impressive, even if I say so myself.
We found an ATM which would only spit out £25 worth of the local wedge for me which was not much use.
Chris however found a currency exchange where he was able to convert the dollars we had picked up at the border so we were in funds whilst I amused the kids!
We made our way back to a guest house/cafe/shop we had passed on our way through the town where we checked in for the princely sum of £10 dinner bed and breakfast so perhaps £25 would have been OK.
That evening Chris came down with a stomach bug so we and spend the next day confined to his bed. Just to make matters worse the only Christian toilet broke down so he had to use the somewhat ripe long drop toilet across the yard which if you were not feeling ill when you entered you soon were!
This gave me a chance in our day off to do some washing in anticipation of the wind as usual getting up in the afternoon and have a wander around the town.
This was a hive of activity as it looked like anything that could carry a load was either transporting coal to heat homes over the winter or grass off the fields to provide feed for the livestock each was filled to capacity.
I was still struck by the disparity of life here to the Pamir where they hand cut small quantities of grass and burn yak dung for fuel this place must look like the land of plenty. No wonder the Tajik guide we met got so angry when they wanted a bribe!
I had opted out of dinner at our guest house tonight after dumpling surprise yesterday comprising of dumpling soup followed by dumplings.
I was enticed into the other cafe in town with a picture of roast chicken only to be presented with an extensive somewhat aspirational menu of which the only thing they had was dumplings!
The next morning Chris was back on his feet but not feeling up to cycling and I was suffering from dumpling overload which seemed to be having an adverse effect on me so I enquired about transport to Osh thinking we might be able to line something up for today but being a Sunday failing that tomorrow.
As I made my way to breakfast there was a minivan parked up so I enquired and he was taking two people from the guest house and could fit us in. So we grasped the opportunity and were soon we threading our bikes and luggage in and were off to cover the remaining 117 mile and 7,000 ft decent to Osh. We shared the van with a Russian cyclist who was having mechanical problems and French pilot who was travelling the world.
We arrived in Osh on Sunday about midday and immediately started shedding clothes as the temperature was so much higher than on the high plateau. The speed of our departure and my lack of a phone ment we had no information about the city or places to stay so set off blind cycling and straight into the bazaar area which was absolute mayhem!
We eventually escaped from there and came across a reasonable looking hotel where we were able to ge a triple room with the all important en suite and settled in. Chris' flight was not for another 4 days so we had lots of time to get to know the city.
A trip to the barbers was required to make the change from the wild men of the Pamir to a pair of city slickers.
I bought a second hand iphone to replace the one lost/stolen and took most of a day to programme it and upload apps.
We when scavenging for cardboard to pack Chris' bike for the plane which was remarkably difficult. It obviously is a form of local currency. This we found out after lifting a few boxes from refuse sites only to be pursued by angry women to recover their stolen goods. Eventually we had enough through fair means or foul and construction commenced.
We were both feeling better after a couple of days so shared a whole cow for dinner that evening.
We even tried the local Magnums to see what they were like.
We took in the sites of Osh which I have to say were a bit limited to climbing a big a lump of rock and a statue of Lenin.
We watched a game of chess and played in an amusement arcade where half the machines were broken but eventually we had to resort to drinking all afternoon at a bar with a man with one foot.
It became time for Chris to leave but I began to worry that he had maybe spent too much time in the Pamirs and may find it difficult to adjust back into Western society but it was great to have him along to share this exciting part of my ride with.
Once Chris was despatched to the airport I finished off updating this blog then I got ready for departure the next day.
It felt strange to be leaving Osh as a solo cyclist again but I had set myself and easy two half days to get to my next destination the city of Jala-Abad. It is here I would stay for a few days as I had a call with my client on Monday I had to prepare for. I would also take the opportunity to do and log some of the 20 hours of professional development which required to retain my qualification.
When I got out of the city I was struck by how much the landscape reminded me of home as it was very green with fields full of crops and the climate was similar. You could tell it was now the end of summer with a chill in the morning and less heat in the sun.
I had covered 40 miles that afternoon so pulled off the road and found a place to camp hidden in a cornfield.
I wasn't too hungry no doubt still recovering for the excesses of Osh so just read a bit until 7.30 when the sun went down the shorter days another sign that winter is on it's way.
I was awoken at 5 am by the calls to prayer from three different mosques merging together but there was not enough daylight to get up until 7 am. I was not in a rush as just another 40 miles to cover today which was pretty uneventful and had me at the hotel I had booked by early afternoon. The place was on the fringe of the city and I had a big room with a good sized desk which was perfect for a couple of days of online learning and preparation for my call on Monday with my client.
I also booked my flight to New Delhi for the 30th September from Almaty which should give me plenty of time to get across Kyrgyzstan.
The morning I came to leave it was raining but I was in no hurry to get going having discovered a shortcut running north from Jala-Abad which would save me 60 miles on the planned main road route to Bishkek that zig zagged across the county.
I provisioned up for two days in the wilderness as there seemed to be very little on route and set off on the back roads.
I didn't get very far as about 5 miles into my 100 mile route soon I was plunged into an unmade road of thick mud which dropped into what looked like a newly formed quarry!
I found a back road passed and round the quarry but I could hardly may my way up it on foot let alone pushing my bike.
I had no choice but to turn around and push out of there which became increasingly more difficult as the mud started to clog up my wheels.
I couldn't wash it off with water so had to get a twig and use that to force it in to free up my wheels so I could get moving. I left the rest to dry but it set like plaster of Paris and I'm still trying to get it off three days later!
I came to another point when I could try the shortcut again but it was a long way with no plan B if I hit problems again. So not being pushed for time I decided to stick to the safety of the main road and pushed on slipstreaming a digger to get past a large flock of sheep on the road that was being herded on horseback.
Next I came across the Uzbekistan border which was surprisingly hard given the two countries were both in the Soviet Union with two barbed wire fences separating a neutral zone with watch towers and patrolling guards.
Despite my late start I covered 45 miles and pulled in down a country lane to find a sheltered spot under some trees. I was just preparing to set up my tent when two girls herded some cows past but that was thankfully the only incurson that night.
The next day I followed a river climbing up a long valley towards the lake/reservoir I needed to go round. As I progressed the river was dammed along it's progress which created a number of ribbon lakes which I cycled along for the rest of the day.
The road was cut from the rock face so there were few opportunities to camp with steep slopes on each side. I did fortunately just short of 60 miles for the day find a road up a side valley which was locked but had a sign welcoming wild camping (or at least that's how I read it).
I went through and found a nice spot near a stream I could filter water from to make my dinner.
Day three on the road and I needed a shower! There was a hotel 40 miles up the road and I decided that was the target for today which was in line with my daily minimum mileage to get to Bishkek on time.
I rode for about 15 miles to the next village and stopped there for a pot of tea and a packet of biscuits. The owner gave me an apple but I was nearly mugged by a herd of goats before I could get it into my pannier.
The day continued with a slow climb as I left the river and rode up a side valley where you could see the traffic passing in the distance 1,000 ft or more above. Thankfully I am getting better at climbing and was soon at the summit and got my first glimpse of the huge reservoir in the distance which was going to be my next obstacle.
As I descended the view opened out to show the water framed by the mountains beyond.
I continued to enjoy this view at the shoreline whilst I had a late lunch of fried fish and tea!
I found my hotel which was basic but OK apart from the shower not working so after I had washed my clothes but not myself I sat on the lake shore and could see the pass I had to get up. This was just over 7 miles away if I had a boat but 40 miles to cycle tomorrow.
It was another short day today with two options 40 miles round the lake to the town opposite or push through and start the climb. I decided with the two good days I had kicked off this section with I was in danger of arriving in Bishkek too early so took option A and made my way down to where the river enters the reservoir and back.
The route had some climbs in it as it didn't follow the shore but even so I was done by 2 pm. This time I found a hotel with a shower and wifi plus an ice cream machine so once washed was able to update my blog powered by Mr Whippy!
Right after a relaxing afternoon I was up and running the next day with an early start from the hotel as there seemed to be no sign of any breakfast. I called by a couple of supermarkets in the hope of some fruit but had to content myself with some chocolate croissants instead.
I also made a Christmas purchase which I spotted!
I started on the road up the pass and after about 10 miles of moderate climbing came to a nice looking cafe
I decided it was time for breakfast so ate the croissants sitting in the sun with some chai.
I set off again slowly making my way up and this was obviously a tourist spot as I passed many restaurants on the way so was confident whilst I had some supplies I would be able to get a meal at some point.
It was 40 miles all up to the summit at 10,250 ft so my thoughts were to continue to stop every 10 miles for a break and some food. 20 miles came up as the valley narrowed it was about 12 noon but I was not feeling too hungry so thought I would press on so just had a banana and some chocolate including starting the Santa Claus. As I expected this was the worst quality chocolate imaginable with a sell by date of 2017 so having consumed his head the rest of his body was left for the birds to enjoy.
There was a shop shown on the map about another 10 mile ahead so I thought hopefully there might be a cafe there as there were many around which were not on the map so pushed on and climbed higher.
I was amused by the number of second hand trailers which found their way onto these roads and not been repainted.
I was passed by a couple from Ireland and one from Halifax. I don’t think this one was carrying what it said otherwise I would have been off in hot pursuit!
I'd not seen any Haribo since leaving Turkey.
Civilisation was running out at this stage with less buildings and more yurts and temporary structures taking over. At the 30 mile mark what I took to be the shop which was in the right spot were a couple of caravans which were closed down and not a cafe to be seen.
The weather was very nice though it was 3 pm and 10 miles to go so I laid down for a while and had a snooze with an alpine backdrop.
At 3.30 I started off again but like all these big climbs and this was one of the biggest in a single day the last bit is a lot harder than the first.
I started to struggle to make progress but thought well I’ve time in hand it's lovely scenery and if, say I don’t make the summit buy 5 pm I could camp and start again tomorrow.
Approaching 5 pm I thought I was at the summit and celebrated with a Snickers bar but as I started to descend I was caught in another of those optical illusions that the road looked to be going down but was still climbing and that really flattens you mentally.
A quick check on the tech told me it was actually another 3 miles to the summit and I was now into the snow line so any earlier thoughts that I had of camping here tonight were put aside and I got summit fever.
Eventually I got there at 6.15 pm and just had time for a quick photo then I was speeding down to a hotel which was on my map which was another 10 miles down the track.
I had put all the clothes I started with on but was still shivering as I shot down arriving half an hour later to find the place shut up I presume for the winter.
The next alternative was another 25 miles away which was too far to reach in daylight so I pulled out my tent and quickly erected it behind a cafe. I threw my stuff inside and grabbed a table as the sun fell.
The menu was limited to dumplings or something that looked more interesting which was joints of meat with onions and what I thought was auburgine but when I bit into it turned out to be offal!
I managed to pick some meat off the bones and ate that with the onions washed down with tea. I had pasta or noodles on the bike which would have been better but I was freezing and would have been trying to make it in the dark. I asked how much and the woman said for everything on the table, which included ten hard boiled eggs I hadn’t ordered or of course consumed (who did she think I was Cool Hand Luke?) £3. This was extortionate but I coughed up and left.
I didn’t have a good night's sleep it rained most of the night and I had obviously pitched the tent in a dog’s territory as every couple of hours through the night he/she would come down and circle the tent barking.
The next morning it was still raining so I struck camp quickly and made a brew and some porridge sheltering behind a building trying to work out which one of the dogs was my tormentor in the night.
Checking the route I had 30 miles mostly downhill then a steep climb for 10 miles a 2 mile tunnel to negotiate, which I would decide to ride or seek a lift when I got there, then 30 miles downhill to the nearest town.
A big day in store then so I set off in attack mode and was pushing 30 mph on the downhill stages hoping to make the start of the climb by 11 am which would put me in a good position.
I passed some yurts which were in the process of being taken down to follow the herds to the lower pastures and others who were still braving it out.
As the road leveled out my speed decreased and it started to rain and I was quickly soaked not just from the sky but also the spray as the lorries whizzed past. At 11 am I pulled in at a shop/hotel five miles from the climb for supplies so was behind schedule.
There was no power so the shop was dark and there was a large group who kept pushed in front of me as this was another Arkwright store with everything behind the counter. It was 11.20 by the time I came out and the rain was heavy I took shelter for 10-15 minutes but looking up the valley it seemed to be in for the day and God knows what it was doing at 10,400 ft which was where I was heading and was higher than yesterday's summit.
Therefore, as I had a day in hand, I decided to cash some time in and took the decision to see if there was a room free here and start again tomorrow. Fortunately one was available at three times what I had paid so far but again beggars can’t be choosers. I moved in at 12.30 the sun came out and I thought I had made a terrible mistake but then it rained on and off for the rest of the afternoon.
At least tomorrow I have just 45 miles to cover not 70 and I will be descending after 15 and will have a dry tent if I need it.
I found a nice restaurant next door and ordered two dishes Borse and Langham which is a bit like spag bol. Both were delicious and cost less together than the Road Kill Egg Surprise I had yesterday.
The next morning it was dry but the cloud was still low so in anticipation of getting wet again I added to yesterday's ensemble another pair of thick socks my leggings and another base layer and set off.
As I reached the pass I had to climb it started to sleat. I rode past a nomad market but I was not in the market for horse milk, honey or disgusting cheese balls so rode on waving at two half dressed boys along the way who waved various things back two of which were hands.
Approaching the snowline I was overtaken but a herd of horses so pulled over and caught them on video.
As I set off again the snow came down but about halfway up the climb there was a break in the clouds and I could see the rest of the climb ahead which was not a good thing as it was more of an alpine road with numerous switchbacks so you could see lorries perched way up in the sky!
Thankfully the cloud moved in to block the torment and I spent most of the climb in a white out and snow which only broke a mile from the summit so I was able to take this shot down the hill.
I arrived at the tunnel entrance where the herd of horses had beaten me up taking a more direct route. There was a kiosk by the road and I would have fancied a hot drink but the tunnel was so narrow that there was a traffic light system for the lorries who had just been given the green light to go and the horses were waiting for their turn.
The lorry light went red and I hurried in thinking that would give me a buffer before more were set off and I definitely didn't want to get stuck behind the horses. This was a strategy that worked well and I had a great ride or more free wheel as it was a downhill and out the other side.
It was freezing as I left the tunnel and I had 30 miles of downhill to come. This first section was more switchbacks where I overtook a few lorries.
Then the road dropped into a narrow gorge with no sunlight and I was met with a strong headwind and was starting to feel the cold as the lorries caught up with me.
Eventually I hit the sun and a short uphill section so had to stop and take off my jacket leggings and a few layers or I would have cooked.
Once over the hill I soon arrived into civilisation, which I classify as a petrol station with a coffee machine and helped myself to the biggest brew they could muster.
Opposite the station was a cheap hostel where I got a bed and headed back over the next morning for another XL caffeine fix!
Packing up my bike I was being barked at by the dog at the hostel which was chained up by the door so I pulled out my ultrasonic dog taser and gave it a shot. It stopped barking like most dog do and it's ears pricked up but as soon as I switched it off it went absolutely mental yanking at the chain to get at me.
Blimey I thought better give it another shot to calm it down, bad move.
The dog was now ballistic and as I hurried to load the rest of my stuff on the owner came out and pushed it into the kennel apologizing as I went past that he didn't know what was the matter with it. I sniggered I did, I hooked the taser on my handlebars as I made my way to the garage but as I left the road I hit a bump and it became dislodged. It fell under the back wheel and there was a crunch as I ran over it! That was the end of that and I guess the dog got the last laugh there.
It was 48 miles to Bishkek where I had booked a nice hotel originally for three nights but was now on schedule to arrive a day early and stay for four.
I was looking forwards to having a break and got on the road early hoping to be finished by mid afternoon.
As I left the town the road ahead certainly looked a lot easier than what was behind me and I soon hit a wide river bank where I had a great 10 miles freewheel down to the main road that would take me into the city.
Things got even better was I was then on a new flat dual carriageway and was flying along thinking I might arrive for the tail end of breakfast!
The road was in the process of being constructed so there were sections which were not open to traffic which I had to myself.
Of course it wouldn't last and the good stuff ran out abruptly and as the area got more built up I was dueling the traffic on unmade roads which was really hard work. I tried to stick to the tarmac but impatient cars trying to gain 10 metres would swing past me on the dirt inside throwing up dust and stones so I had to give up and pull to the side.
After 10 miles of this off road hell my back was killing me as I had to keep sat in the saddle and peddling over the rough surface to maintain speed with the traffic.
Exiting one of the towns I was looking for a cafe but couldn't find one which was not surprising as who would want to sit out next to this dust bowl mixed with vehicle fumes.
Instead I made do with a supermarket where I sat on the steps and had a breather whilst reviewing the latest Magnum alternative.
Nice flavour but lacked structural integrity which I think was more of a storage issue!
After a couple of stops to stretch and easy my back I was into the city and spotted an opportunity for fame and fortune!
I thought I'd give then a blast of I Fear Ikea but realised as there are no stores here it might not translate!
As the clock counted down to 12 noon I was in danger of arriving before the sun was over the yardarm but resting my back helped to alleviate that issue so I was clear to dive into a Tex Mex bar for a well earned beer and tacos.
First in a fortnight and badly needed!
When I got to my hotel I gave the bike a much needed clean getting all the mud off it from last week's detour and relaxed by the pool.
Whist cleaning my bike I noticed the rear mudguard had split so I managed to fix this with some epoxy glue and a some bits of bucket!
I also had time in the days I was in Bishkek to explore the city
As with many of the Stans there were still many statues and art making reference to the old soviet era which have mostly been taken down in Eastern Europe.
It was time to leave Bishkek and with just 15 miles to the border and back into Kazakhstan but I was not in a great hurry so took my time packing in the morning.
Then after a short trip into the city to change my money I hit the road.
As I made my way out of the city I saw a few sights I had missed when I was on foot but that is always the way with these short stays the built up area seemed to go on forever.
Then suddenly I realised that I was fast approaching the border crossing so swung by at a shop and exchanged my coins for a last look-a-like Magnum and made up the balance with sachets of instant coffee.
As I approached the border there was a long tail back of traffic queuing outside a closed gate but I saw a pedestrian route that was open so switched to that. As I approached the border control I could see a building full of people waiting to have their passports checked but there was a gap in the fence to an empty car lane so I moved into that and sailed through.
I was waved on but came to another closed gate with no one in attendance so tried the same trick again of moving into the pedestrian lane which got me into Kazakhstan but this time I was funneled into another crowded passport office with no escape.
It was mayhem inside with people pushing and shoving to progress to one of the windows so I joined the scum. I was well in then I realised that to get to a border guard I would have to turn my bike through 90 degrees which to say would be difficult in this press of people would be an understatement and then get round a dog leg to exit past their kiosk which was just impossible.
I was trying to think what the hell to do but was being pushed forward by people behind much to the annoyance of those in front being run down by my bike! At this point a man from Azerbaijan pushed past me, I know that as he had a sack truck full of carpets behind him! He took these past the booths left them and then walked back. So that was how it was done!
I managed to force my way into the middle and did the same being allowed when I had my passport stamped to retrieve my bike.
After that I had to take all my panniers and bags off my bike and pass them through an x ray machine and I was through.
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