We had looked at the options over the border and there were limited. We had cycled for 44 miles and the only hotel for 20 miles was at the border so we booked in there. The place was a bit random warehouse themed with good piled everywhere. I didn't ask to see their risk assessment, there was no loo roll in our room but luckily about a thousand rolls in the lounge!
We took refuge in the restaurant and had some kebabs served by the drooling waiter. It was Ramadan and he showed us on his phone which confirmed he at just over an hour to go until he could break his fast not the best time to be doing his job.
It was close to the start of the month of Ramadan so this would be an ongoing feature of my time in Turkey.
We discussed the route from here, my plan was to head south to the Mediterranean and then approach Istanbul from the south but Eric wanted to take the more hilly northern route. It looked a quieter road so I agreed. There was little more to do here other then look at the massive queue of trucks stretching to the distance waiting to leave Turkey they were not moving so we got bored and we turned in.
The next morning our smiling waiter, now I presume well fed, greeted us again and made us a cup of coffee. We tried to look at the breakfast options but soon a plate of cheese olives and vegetables was produced with a mountain of bread and the obligatory tea (chai). Looks like breakfast was include in our room which was good value and worked out at 13 Euros each.
Fuelled up we headed off past the still huge queue of waiting lorries still stretching as far as the eye can see. I was thinking what a rough night they must have had unable to sleep as they would have to be constantly shuffling forwards. Maybe a sign of things to come in the UK.
Soon thought we left the highway and found our way on to some lovely rural dirt roads that took us across the hill and eastwards towards Istanbul and as you can see the sun was out and the temperature was rising.
As we pressed on the terrain became more undulating and a series of short drops with steep rises which slowed our progress in the heat and certainly sapped my energy. Eric was coping well though and waiting for me at the end of each climb. My left pedal was also starting to grind and stick. It looked like the bearings were going which was not good and I wondered how much longer it would last.
Our target for the day was Pinarhisar which would put us in position to be in Istanbul in two days time but at 3.30 we had only covered 48 miles to Kirklareli and with 20 more miles to go and similar terrain we decided enough was enough and found a hotel. This was a bit better than last night this one had a rooftop bar.
We found a cycle repair shop and picked up a cheap pair of pedals for a few euros. I only needed to carry the left just in case so I threw the right one away to save weight!
I looked at the route ahead and it was more of the same with lots of hills but there was still a viable option to go south. I put this to Eric who said he liked the hills and used to go to the alps to climb them. He said he would be first to the top of the climbs and then come back down to see his fiends who told him to go away.
I realised at the point the Eric was a lunatic and I need to get as far away from him as possible! We were going to split up at Istanbul anyway as I was staying there for a few days he was pushing on so I said fine you stay on this road but I am heading south.
The next morning we had a later 7.30 breakfast and then both set off for the last leg to Pinarhisar which was a brutal ride with yes those hills again and now a strong headwind as well.
It was there that we said our farewells as I turned south to the flat plain while Eric stayed north in his beloved hills.
Heading due south the wind was suddenly in my favour and my speed increased and with the landscape flattening I made my next 15 mile target in record time.
I found a deserted park where I ate the sandwich I had prepared at breakfast, I am conscious during Ramadan of eating in public when others are fasting then mapped out the rest of the day. The city of Corlus was another 35 miles and looked achievable maybe in three hour so would be there by 4 pm. I set off but had turned due east and now for most of the route the wind was in my teeth so my projection looked optimistic.
I struggled on into the wind making about 6 mph and charted my progress on my map edging towards the point where with about 5 mile to go I would turn south and again have the benefit of the tailwind. The road was very exposed so there was no respite from the wind except when big lorries when past that created a wind shadow but that was unnerving as you then tended to swerve towards their wheels!
The final section was long a slow climb up a hill and in the distance I would see a couple of transmitter masts which usually signify the top so I promised myself some Haribo when I got there.
As I pulled over I saw the building was vacant and the gate open I thought I could just push my bike in there and set up camp behind the wall sheltered from view and the traffic. I have to say when you do not have a big target to hit sometimes motivation can be difficult.
I checked my maps and it did not look too long to the turning point and at last a opportunity to get some more benefit from this wind so I pressed on further and I was soon dropping down the hill and speeding south with the wind on my back.
I approached the motorway but Map Me, the app I was now using that did have a cycling function, had plotted me a back road route into the city and I swung below onto a dirt track next to the railway.
At this point I noticed that one of my rear panniers was rattling and stopped to take a look. The fixing had come loose on the rough ground somewhere and was lost. Just then, I guy in a van stopped and said "problem?" yes I said pointing to my pannier. He gestured to follow him into a nearby industrial unit and into his workshop.
Once here he and his team had the pannier empty and bolt fitted in formula one speed. This is where the analogy stops as I said thanks but was ushered into his office sat down and two tumblers appeared ah chai I thought. No the fridge opens and out came the vodka. He pored two quadruple measured topped them off with cherry juice we toasted and they were downed in one!
Can't see that being added to the F1 pit stop mind you having said that it might liven thing up! With that on board I swerved off into the rush hour traffic and somehow made it into the centre where I found a cheap hotel for the night.
The next morning I got on the D100 which would be my main route to the coast and then on into Istanbul. I had done some calculations and it was about 75 miles into the city centre. The urban riding and navigation would slow my progress so I was not planning to make it in one day. I found online some reasonably priced beach hotels 40 miles away on the outskirts of the city which would be my target for the day and not being under pressure set off at 10 am to miss the worst of the traffic.
The road had the look and feel of a motorway but there was a third lane that was used for accelerating decelerating busses etc. which I was happy using.
I was making good progress but after 5 miles realised I had had no coffee this morning only tea was on offer. I thought I would stop at the first garage which was bound to have a coffee machine as that is what coursed through truckers veins. I saw totem sign in the distance and thought great time for my morning dose but then as I grew closer it turned out to be a car showroom. I could pretend to be thinking of trading in my bike and they might give me a coffee I thought but no I was not that desperate.
On I rode and started to fixate on coffee and wondering what the outcome would be if I didn't get some. Another two totems appeared in the distance and my heart rose as the first said BP but only to be dashed as I realised they were on the wrong side of the road!
I battled on convinced I could feel the onset of hyperglycemia when another sign appeared it seemed to be on my side of the carriageway but the road bent to the right so I could not be sure and might again be denied but no I was saved. I staggered to the coffee machine it was 7 lire (less than £1) I was not impressed it had been 1 lire yesterday but I was desperate!
My health recovered I was back on the road and a mile or so later found this place but unfortunately too soon for another stop.
It was an overcast day but over the next crest the Mediterranean came into site but the third lane had petered out to a thin hard shoulder but was still OK as the traffic was light so there was room to get by.
As I approached the sea the road got more inhospitable with traffic building past the intersection with the coastal highway and the hard shoulder disappeared. I turned off and took to the suburbs finding myself in a long beach style area which was deserted so probably an district of holiday and second homes.
Rounding the corner the beach was in sight
And once I had dropped down the hill I saw a gap between two buildings and was on the shore. This was a milestone moment for me having not seen the sea since I got off the ferry in Rotterdam.
I stopped for lunch and pulled out my Hungarian sausage which needed eating as I would not be on the road for another week. It was perfect timing as I bit into my pork based snack the call to prayer erupted from the minaret close by and also from across the bay. I looked round like guilty schoolboy even though I know I was alone.
More manoeuvring thought urban roads and a big climb out of the bay then a few miles down the coast and I found my hotels and got a great deal £17 B&B including the use of the pool.
Time to put my feet up and get ready for the ride into Istanbul tomorrow.
The final push to Istanbul which was about 35 miles of urban sprawl and again hoping to miss the rush hour I set of later at 9.30.
After some back roads it was back on to the D100 which had like the Danube I was following before grown in size and was now a 5 lane highway but there were two lanes segregated for local traffic which what where I lived. This coastal route had many drops and climbs and the road passed headland and across inlets I was OK on the flats and downs but felt vulnerable grinding slowly uphill as the traffic whizzed past so either walk up some of these or used the footpath.
Over the first inlet the land rose steeply over the next headland and I was directed off the highway and thankfully through the suburbs. Then started a steep hill which I worked hard to climb. I had washed my cycling kit and had to used a hair dryer to this morning on them but 90 minutes in and I was dripping with sweat.
I was glad I had made the choice not to try and made the city centre yesterday this would have been even harder with 50 miles in my legs and I ended up off the bike and pushing the last bit.
I was then ushered back on the D100 for the next thrilling downhill which then rose sharply with lots of industrial development sitting below the highway. I was off the bike and pushing when I got to a petrol station so pulled in for a cool coke. As I walked to the shop there was a crash as a car mowed through the totem sign and hit a tree next to the forecourt. That was lucky I thought!
I continued on towards the airport where with 15 miles still to go I came across a roadside Burger King. It was 12.30 lunch I thought so stopped and had a double whopper to calm my nerves.
Suddenly I was directed off the highway and what follows was another five nerve shredding miles of negotiating anything on wheels through downtown Istanbul until I eventually landed at my hotel.
I got my stuff into my room and when across the street to buy my body weight in Turkish delight to celebrate my deliverance, safe arrival and the end of Europe!
Showered and restored I had time to pop over for the mandatory picture in front of the Blue Mosque. I will be taking a few days off here to route plan, get my bike serviced and sort out my visas for onward travel plus a bit of sightseeing.
I managed to pick up a good set of pedals in Istanbul but my bike service uncovered excessive wear to the rear hub which was found to be a rare 40 spoke version which could not be sourced in Turkey. I looked on the web and likewise had no joy. I even got my bike mechanic in Manchester to try but likewise he drew a blank and it looked like it was a custom hub for my bike that they had discontinued.
I therefore asked the shop to replace my whole wheel with a more conventional hub but this would not be as strong as what I had. Eventually they came back and said they asked around other shops in the city and managed to find a similar hub which they were able to strip down for the required cone. This would get me up and running on my original wheel which is high spec and the best outcome what great service!
The work on my bike lead to an extended stay in Istanbul so had plenty of time to take in this sights but first stop was an appointment with a Turkish barber for a haircut and shave. I even had my ears waxed which was a first for me.
After this it was back to the blue mosque which I was able to get inside but didn't really get a good picture of the blue tiles in the interior from which it gets it's name.
Opposite the Blue Mosque is Hagia Sophia which was built by the Romans at the time when the seat of the Roman Empire was moved to then Constantinople it was amazing to stand on the spot on the floor where emperors of the empire were ordained.
The building was then converted to a mosque with the addition of the external minarets intenmihrabsally the mihrab which is supposed to be in the qiblah wall facing Mecca is offset and free standing as the building is not correctly oriented.
Externally, many modifications have also been made to stabilize the structure so as to make it almost unrecognisable from what was originally constructed but internally the sight is breathtaking and it is almost unbelievable that I was standing in such an impressive structure which was built in 537 AD.
One evening I attended a performance of The Whirling Dervishes which is a form of physically active meditation which originated among certain Sufi groups not really a genuine Sufi monks as the dancers arrived dressed in a suit and tie but an interesting performance all the same. It was a recreation of a religious ceremony so not exactly Fame the Musical.
Close to my hotel was the large Topkapı Palace which, in the 15th and 16th centuries served as the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans.
A trip to the grand bazaar was a definite must which was a bewildering complex of stalls selling every type of tourist tat under the sun.
With my extended stay whilst my bike was fixed I worked further down the list of sights and made my way to see the Basilica Cistern which is an impressive underground reservoir which is another hugely impressive structure built in the 6th century under the streets of the city.
I also took a boat trip on the Bosphorus which was a great opportunity to see all the impressive waterfront buildings along the route.
Next stop Asia!